Sunday, June 12, 2005

Surf's up!

So I think I need to move closer to the ocean. The surf is calling my name. After the Mud Run we all went surfing with my uncle and his friend, Mark Facer. We went to Doheny, which is a perfect beach for learning because the waves weren't too big.

David and Mark were pushing everyone else onto the waves, but I was paddling myself in. It was so much fun! I think I'm practically on my way to becoming a pro surfer. This experience was way better than my last attempt at surfing. I think it's because my uncle and Mark are way better teachers, and probably surfers, than that retarded guy was. I was actually catching waves! It was awesome and I think I'm addicted.

It's a lifetime's journey and you will never arrive. You will always be waiting for that perfect wave, and you will always be striving to be better. The journey is in moving forward; Imua, my friends.

~2 hrs; Doheny beach

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